Every February, in the heart of Guanacaste, Costa Rica, the city of Liberia transforms into a vibrant tapestry of color, culture, and celebration. This is the Fiestas Cívicas Liberia, a living testament to the traditions and values of the people of Guanacaste. For locals, it’s a cherished time to honor their history and heritage, and for tourists, it’s an invitation to immerse themselves in the authentic spirit of Costa Rica.
This year, the festival is scheduled from February 19th– March 2nd. It includes Bull Runs, Rodeos, Tope de Toros, Live Music, Traditional Foods and more.
The Spirit of Guanacaste
Known as the “pampa” region of Costa Rica, Guanacaste boasts a distinct identity shaped by its cowboy culture, colonial history, and close ties to nature. The Fiestas Cívicas Liberia embody this identity, showcasing a mix of traditional customs, lively festivities, and heartfelt community spirit. Originating to commemorate Costa Rica’s annexation of Guanacaste in 1824, the festival has grown over the years into a cultural highlight, drawing thousands of visitors from around the world.
For weeks leading up to the festival, Liberia hums with anticipation. Streets are adorned with colorful banners, stalls begin to appear along the main thoroughfares, and the unmistakable scent of roasted meats and fresh tamales wafts through the air. The town’s historic white-washed buildings provide a charming backdrop to the festivities, giving visitors a sense of stepping back in time while experiencing the pulse of modern-day Guanacaste.
A Day in the Life of the Fiestas Cívicas
Morning: The Parade of Tradition
The Fiestas Cívicas Liberia officially begins with a grand parade known as Tope de Toros, a spectacle of pageantry and tradition. The streets are lined with spectators—families with young children, groups of teenagers dressed in their finest, and elderly couples reminiscing about festivals past. As the first notes of a marimba band fill the air, El Tope comes to life.
Leading El Tope are groups of sabaneros, Guanacaste’s iconic cowboys, dressed in wide-brimmed hats, embroidered shirts, and leather boots. Mounted on their beautifully groomed horses, they demonstrate their exceptional horsemanship with tricks and formations. Behind them, ox-drawn carts, or carretas, painted in vibrant hues, carry depictions of Guanacastecan life, from agricultural scenes to traditional dance performances.
Children from local schools follow, dressed in folkloric attire. The girls wear long, flowing skirts in the colors of the Costa Rican flag, while the boys don red scarves and white shirts. Together, they perform traditional dances like the Punto Guanacasteco, their movements telling stories of love, nature, and resilience.
Midday: The Flavors of Liberia
As the sun reaches its zenith, the parade gives way to the aromas of Guanacaste’s legendary cuisine. Stalls selling traditional foods line the streets, offering visitors a chance to indulge in the flavors of the region. From chorreadas (sweet corn pancakes) to hearty olla de carne (a rich beef and vegetable stew), there is something to satisfy every palate.
One of the most popular dishes is arroz con pollo, a savory blend of rice, chicken, and vegetables, often served with fried plantains and a dollop of Natilla (Costa Rican sour cream). For those seeking a heartier meal, Casados, plates piled high with rice, beans, salad, and a choice of meat, are a staple. And, of course, no visit to the festival is complete without sampling tamales, wrapped in banana leaves and filled with seasoned pork or chicken.
Refreshing drinks like agua de sapo (a sweet concoction of ginger, lime, and tapa de dulce) and fresh coconut water are on hand to help festival-goers beat the heat. Vendors shout out their offerings, their voices adding to the cacophony of laughter, music, and chatter.
Afternoon: The Bullring Comes Alive
As the afternoon heat wanes, crowds begin to gather at the redondel, the circular bullring that serves as the epicenter of the Fiestas Cívicas. Here, the famed corridas de toros, or bull runs, take place—a unique and exhilarating tradition that combines skill, bravery, and a touch of humor.
Unlike traditional bullfighting, Costa Rica’s bull runs are a humane spectacle. The bulls are not harmed, and the focus is on the participants—often young men, but occasionally women—who enter the ring to test their mettle. Dressed in colorful clothing, they dart around the bull, attempting daring maneuvers while avoiding its horns. The crowd roars with approval at close calls and bursts into laughter when an overly confident participant takes a tumble.
For the sabaneros, the bullring is a stage to display their mastery of cattle herding. Riding their trusted horses, they demonstrate their ability to guide the bulls with precision and control. It’s a celebration of the skills that have been passed down through generations of Guanacastecan families.
Evening: Music and Dancing Under the Stars
As dusk falls, the festival takes on a new energy. The main square becomes a hub of music and dance, with live bands playing everything from traditional marimba tunes to contemporary salsa and cumbia. Couples take to the dance floor, their movements a seamless blend of practiced steps and spontaneous joy.
For those seeking a more relaxed evening, the festival’s topes, or horse parades, offer a chance to admire the beauty of Guanacaste’s horses and the elegance of their riders. Lit by the glow of lanterns, the sight of these majestic animals trotting through the streets is both enchanting and serene.
Street vendors continue to operate late into the night, selling everything from handcrafted souvenirs to sugary treats like cajetas (coconut fudge) and tres leches cake. Children clutch balloons shaped like animals, and groups of friends gather around tables to share a bottle of guaro, Costa Rica’s traditional sugarcane liquor.
Behind the Scenes: The People of the Festival
While the Fiestas Cívicas Liberia is a spectacle for visitors, it’s also a deeply personal event for the people of Guanacaste. Preparations begin months in advance, with local committees working tirelessly to coordinate the parade, bull runs, and other events. Artisans spend countless hours crafting the intricate designs on the carretas, while dancers and musicians rehearse to ensure their performances are flawless.
For many residents, the festival is a family affair. Generations come together to cook traditional dishes, share stories of past festivals, and pass down customs to younger members. It’s a time to reconnect with their roots and celebrate the values that define their community: resilience, hospitality, and a love for life.
A Tourist’s Perspective
For visitors, the Fiestas Cívicas Liberia is an unforgettable experience. Many describe it as a window into the soul of Costa Rica, a chance to witness the warmth and generosity of its people firsthand. From the bustling streets to the spirited bullring, every moment is infused with a sense of authenticity and joy.
Tourists often find themselves drawn to the simplicity of the festival’s pleasures: the taste of a freshly made tamale, the rhythm of a marimba tune, or the sight of a child’s face lighting up at the parade. These small, heartfelt moments leave a lasting impression, making the Fiestas Cívicas not just a highlight of their trip, but a cherished memory.
Preserving Tradition in a Modern World
In an era of rapid change and globalization, the Fiestas Cívicas Liberia stands as a beacon of cultural preservation. While the festival has evolved over the years—incorporating modern attractions like carnival rides and live concerts—it remains rooted in the traditions that make Guanacaste unique.
Efforts to preserve the festival’s authenticity are evident in initiatives like educational workshops on folkloric dance and music, as well as programs that teach younger generations the art of ox-cart painting. By fostering a sense of pride in their heritage, the people of Liberia ensure that the festival continues to thrive for years to come.
Conclusion: A Celebration of Life
The Fiestas Cívicas Liberia is more than just a festival—it’s a celebration of life, community, and the enduring spirit of Guanacaste. For those lucky enough to experience it, the festival offers a glimpse into a world where tradition and modernity coexist in harmony, and where every moment is an opportunity to celebrate the beauty of life.
As the final notes of the marimba fade into the night and the last lanterns are extinguished, the people of Liberia bid farewell to another successful festival. Yet, the memories linger, etched into the hearts of all who took part. For in Guanacaste, the spirit of the Fiestas Cívicas is not confined to a single week—it lives on in the warmth of its people, the richness of its culture, and the timeless beauty of its land.
